一個遙遠又陌生的國度 米比亞共和國 辛巴部族





納米比亞共和國(Namibia)位於非洲的西南角,西濱大西洋。納米比亞長達1,600公里的大西洋海岸線都是沙漠地帶,稱為納米比沙漠(Namib Desert),東西寬度約50~160公里,變化莫測的納米比沙漠與大西洋波濤起伏的藍色海水交融碰撞的壯麗奇景,被列為世界令人驚豔十大美景之一。在納米比亞漫長的大西洋海岸線北端,有一段約500公里長的沙漠形成的海灘,有令人驚駭的海流和常年不斷的大風、將人們引向歧途的海霧和捉摸不定的水下暗礁,使得這一海域經常發生海難,耀眼的金黃色沙漠中埋藏著無數的白骨及船隻殘骸,被稱為「骷髏海岸」(Skeleton Coast)。納米比亞西北部,從骷髏海岸褶痕斑駁的金色沙丘,向內陸延伸至庫內內區(Kunene region)的首府奧普沃(Opuwo)一帶,生活著一支幾世紀以來保持原始生態行將消失的半遊牧部族--辛巴族(Himba),族群人數約2~5萬人,他們靠放養牛羊為生,隨著季節輪換,牛群從一個水坑遷徙至另一個水坑。由於棲身在荒涼的沙漠地區,遠離現代文明的偏遠地方,生活依舊停留在原始狀態,維持著500年前傳統的生活方式和習俗,獨特的原始生活與人文景觀令人驚豔,成為非洲碩果僅存的原生態部族,無價的文化和傳統,近年來越來越被關心人類與自然關係的人們所重視。




The treacherous Namib Desert meets the blue rough sea of Atlantic Ocean, where the collision emerge out of a magnificent spectacle through the dynamic nature of tides.
變化莫測的納米比沙漠與大西洋波濤起伏的藍色海水交匯,由於大自然潮汐的動力碰撞出壯麗的奇景。


The sand dunes of Namib Desert come in various guises of hummock dunes, transverse dunes and crescent dunes, which contains iron ore elements regreted the red glow in the sunshine and have drawn many photographers here to look for themes.
納米比沙漠的沙丘以小圓丘、橫向沙丘和新月形沙丘等不同外貌呈現,它含有鐵礦元素,在陽光照射下煥發出憾人的紅色,吸引了許多攝影家們來此尋覓主題。



Ghostly shipwrecks on remote and inaccessible shores has given the Skeleton Coast it‘s
well-deserved name, while Portuguese sailors once referred to it as “The Gates of Hell”.
Numerous bones and the vessels wreckage were buried in this bright golden desert.
如鬼魅般易引發沉船偏遠難以進入的海岸,已經給予骷髏海岸名符其實的名稱,當時葡萄牙水手曾稱之為「地獄之門」。
這裡耀眼的金黃色沙漠中埋藏著無數的白骨及船隻殘骸。


The Himba live in the desolate desert regions of North West Namibia, lives have still kept in the original way, entire villages reflect the original nature and harmonization.
辛巴人棲身在納米比亞西北部荒涼沙漠地區,生活依舊停留在原始狀態,整個村寨展現出原始的自然與和諧。


They usually are living their semi-nomadic pastoral lives and move their homesteads several times a year to graze their livestock.
他們平時過著半遊牧的牧民生活,為了放牧牲口他們每年會遷徙好幾次家園。


The donkey is an important means of transport of Himba.
驢子是辛巴人重要的運輸工具



辛巴族女子常年袒露上身,特別的是,她們喜歡把當地一種赭石(ochre)在石磨上磨成粉末混和乳制奶油、灰和香草塗抹在身上,以抵禦烈日暴曬及防止蚊蟲叮咬;一頭裝飾美麗的長髮也裹上赭石混合物,只在末端才露出頭髮,渾身紅色的皮膚在陽光下閃爍著溫潤光澤,予人極大的震撼,而有「紅泥人」的別稱。她們赤裸著上身,粗獷厚重的金屬飾物就是她的上衣,頭頂戴上小羊皮綴飾的蝴蝶結,脖子上盤繞著十餘個精巧的銅項圈;由大貝殼制成的飾品掛在胸前,其下由鴕鳥蛋殼穿成的珠鏈下垂直至腹部;身後掛了一個有金屬釘裝飾的皮片,腰間掛著寬厚的皮腰帶,上面綴滿了銅質的細密花紋;腰帶下是一條精心縫製的羊皮百褶短裙,前面褶密,後面褶稀,腳踝上穿著串珠的錫腳環。驚豔的打扮,加上個個身材窈窕,長腿細腰,她們以具有與生俱來的優雅和雕像般美麗的身影著名,毫無忌諱展露女性上身之美,是觀光客和攝影師尋覓的主題與鏡頭下的至愛。辛巴族婦女在村落裡承擔絕大多數日常勞作,包括擠牛奶、挑水煮飯、看護小孩、採摘野果,而辛巴男人則外出放牧狩獵。現在男人們也開始外出打工,女人依然在家裡操持家務。近年來由於大量觀光客擁入,他們也懂得將色彩豔麗的珠子串成項鍊、手鐲;縫製人偶及製作盛水用葫蘆等手工藝品,在村內廣場圍成一即席市場販賣,以補貼家用。


The women generally are adorned with shells, plaits and ornaments made of iron and copper on their chest. Note also, the conch shell that hangs between the breasts is only worn by married women and is a symbol of fertility, young unmarried girls do not wear.
女子通常會將貝殼,辮子及由鐵、銅製成的首飾裝飾在胸前。請注意,掛在她雙乳之間的海螺貝殼是已婚婦女生育的象徵,年輕未婚的女孩不可以載。


A married woman tie a adorned bow made of lambskin on her head.
已婚婦女頭頂系上一頂小羊皮綴飾的蝴蝶結。


Himba girl can be identified as unmarried due to the absence of leather hair ornaments and a conch shell.
辛巴族未婚少女可由沒有穿戴皮質頭飾和胸前海螺作一認定。


Front view of married Himba woman
辛巴族已婚婦女正面照


Front view of unmarried Himba girl
辛巴族未婚女子正面照


Side view of married Himba women
辛巴族已婚婦女側面照


looking back smile(unmarried girl)
回眸一笑(未婚少女)


View of married Himba women from the back.
辛巴族已婚婦女背面照


The women grind some kind of local ochre to make a clay-like substance called red otjize ​​by mixing ocher powder, butterfat, ash, and herbs.
婦女們研磨當地一種赭石,混合赭石粉末、乳制奶油、灰和香草,製作出一種有如黏土般的物資,名叫赭紅色麵糊。


In order to protect themselves from sun exposure and mosquito bites, the women apply each morning to their body with red otjize which gives their skin a reddish tinge and is a sort of traditional make-up.
為了保護自己免受烈日暴曬及蚊蟲叮咬,婦女每天早晨以赭紅色面胡塗抹身體,使得她們膚色成為偏紅色調,它是一種傳統的化妝術。


The Himba women are proud of taking several hours for beauty care every morning, they generally braided hair and helped each other for covering their body with red otjiz.
辛巴婦女自豪每天早上花幾個小時在美容護理上,她們通常都會相互編織頭髮和相互在身體上塗抹赭紅色麵糊。


A beautifully decorative long hair is also coated with red otjiz , hair is exposed only at the end.
一頭裝飾美麗的長髮也裹上赭紅色麵糊,只在末端才露出頭髮。


The women wear headdresses with many streams of braided hair, it looks a little bit like the vines.
婦女頭髮編織成多條辮子的頭飾看起來有點像藤蔓。


The hairstyle of the Himba indicates age and social status,
single minor Himba men wear only one plait.
辛巴人的髮型象徵年齡與社會地位,單身未成年男孩只能留一撮小辮子。


Pre-pubescent girls wear two plaits pointing to the front.
From the onset of puberty, the girls' plaits can have more than two.
青春期(17歲)前的女孩只能留兩絛辮子垂掛前方,青春期開始,女孩可以留更多條辮子。



Under the age of 17.
未滿17歲的辛巴女子


Adult women generally wear beaded anklets on legs, in order to protect their legs from snake bites.
成年女子腿上通常會穿上串珠腳煉,以保護他們的腿不被毒蛇咬傷。



奧普沃(Opuwo)在辛巴土語是「世界的末端」的意思。由於惡劣的沙漠氣候,辛巴人蝸居在世界偏遠一隅,那是一個荒涼孤寂的世界,與世隔絕的環境讓他們滿足於現狀,沒有過高的奢求。大自然為保護辛巴原始文化,將一切安排得巧妙而隱蔽。他們用樹枝做成籬笆,將村落圈在一個圓形區域內,村落中間用長條木棍圍成牲口欄,再往外散落著一些小屋,那就是他們居住的地方。居住的房屋,大多是用樹枝、泥土和摻有牛糞的泥巴搭建,土屋通常成圓錐或圓型,屋內面積一般三、四平方米。辛巴人沒有圖騰,他們崇拜祖先、崇拜火,祖先火是維繫民族的精神核心。一個家族結成一個部落,一個村子基本就是一戶人家。他們珍愛自己的傳統,知曉自己靈魂的歸屬,用赭紅色麵糊去塑造自已的天地與生活。1980年代納米比亞曾遭遇乾旱和戰爭的侵襲,這段期間內有90%辛巴族賴以為生的牲畜死亡,饑荒造成人口大幅銳減,讓辛巴人的文化幾近分崩離析。外加現代文明迅速入侵,太過觀光化的結果,造成辛巴人遭受文明的污染(觀光客拍照要給小費,男人有錢會去買酒喝,小孩也常常伸手向觀光客要零錢),辛巴族作為非洲碩果僅存的原生部落,幾個世紀以來仍堅持傳統的生活形態,他們獨特的生活方式與人文景觀,在未來數十年可能行將消失。


A view of typical village from above -- The homestead is surrounded by a circular fence built with branches. At the center of the village, the enclosure for livestock (kraal) is surrounded by another fence. In most of the villages there is only one opening.
一個典型村寨空中鳥瞰場景--辛巴人家園是以樹枝構建圍成的圓形籬笆,在村子中央的牲口欄則被另外的籬笆圈圍。大多數的村落有只有一個開口。


outer fence
週邊籬


Inner fence(central kraal)
內圍籬(中央牲口欄)


The huts of homesteads where Himba dwell in, are cone or round shaped structures made from mud, branches and cattle dung.
辛巴人居住的家園小屋是以泥巴、樹枝和牛糞造成的錐形或圓形結構。


The Himba homestead is a family unit, overseen by the headman who is normally a grandfather and the oldest male.
辛巴族家園是以家庭為單位,由一位元頭目來監督,通常是祖父級的男性長者。


Himba mud hut
辛巴族土屋


Himba mud hut
辛巴族土屋


The interior of mud hut furnishings shabby
土屋內部陳設簡陋。


Because of the absence of bathing water, Himba women have developed innovated hygienic practices, they smoulder certain aromatic plants and resins, and use the smoke created to perfume and cleanse themselves every morning.
由於缺乏洗澡水,辛巴婦女已經發展出創新的衛生習慣,他們每天早上熏燒某些芳香植物和樹脂,以煙所產生的芳香自我淨身。


Excess milk is made into butter, which is churned in a gourd to make it sour, it is a Namibian delicacy
多餘的牛奶會在葫蘆裡攪動變酸製成奶油,這是納米比亞的美味。


The Himba are polygamous with one man often having multiple wives, as long as he has enough cattle in order to ensure population, even so, Himba population is still in decline.
辛巴人是一夫多妻制,一個男人只要有足夠的牛只往往有多個妻子,以確保人口數,即使如此,辛巴人口仍處於遞減狀態。


As in prehistoric times, maize is ground to make flour.
宛如史前時代,將玉米研磨成粉。


The diet of the Himba consists mainly of a porridge made from maize and milk.
辛巴人的飲食主要包括玉米和牛奶製成的粥。


Cooking maize porridge , this is the staple food of Himbas
烹調玉米粥,只是辛巴人的主食。


Cooking
烹飪


The responsibility for milking the cows and goats lies with the women.
擠牛奶與羊奶的責任落在婦女身上。


The Himba women enjoy performing dance consisted on rapidly turning and jumping which is always repeated in a loop and accompanied by some rhythmical clapping and chanting.
辛巴婦女喜愛享受快速旋轉和跳躍的舞蹈,舞步伴隨著節奏性的鼓掌與吶喊,動作經常反復迴圈。


Himba girls also performed a dance to honor the tourists, while they come to visit.
當觀光客造訪時,辛巴女孩也會以舞蹈表達對觀光客的敬意。


Clothes, hairstyle and jewellery made by themselves are all of particular significance to the Himba and are part of their tradition and culture
自製的服飾、髮型及首飾對辛巴人而言具有特殊意義,是他們傳統和文化的一部分。


Himba women now are using their traditional crafts to produce items to sell to tourists. A visit to Himba villages usually ends in an impromptu market in village square where all the women bring out necklaces, bracelets, baskets and carvings they have made.
現在辛巴婦女會利用她們傳統手工藝製作產品出售給遊客。通常參觀辛巴村會在村內廣場上的即席市場才會結束,所有的婦女會帶著他們製作的項鍊、手鏈、籃子和雕刻品來這裡。


The Himba jewellery is made from iron or shell, due to their intricate designs have become very popular among western tourists.
辛巴人的珠寶首飾是由鐵或貝殼製成,由於其複雜的設計已流行於西方遊客間。


Peddling handicrafts
兜售工藝品


Peddling handicrafts
兜售工藝品


Home life
居家生活


Home life
居家生活


Home life
居家生活


Home life
居家生活


Home life
居家生活


Over the past centuries, Himba insisted on their traditions and adapted to outside influences in their own way, unspoiled by modernity as if they lived in a time capsule.
過去數百年來,辛巴人堅持他們的傳統,以自己的方式適應外界的影響,不受現代化的影響,彷佛生活在時間膠囊裡。


The Himba as the last people of Africa who live in a mainly original way, have resisted change and preserved their distinctive cultural heritage for centuries.
But now little by little, they have being forced to reconcile traditional ways with European values, their original lifestyle and unique ethnic individuality might be about to disappear in the next several decades.
辛巴族作為非洲碩果僅存的原生部落,幾個世紀以來,他們抗拒改變,保留了自己特有的文化底蘊。但是現在他們正一點一滴的被迫以歐洲的價值觀去調和傳統的生活習俗,他們原有生活模式與獨特的人文景觀,在未來數十年可能行將消失。